Tracing the Enigmatic Origins of Bika Ambon
Unveiling the Mystery: Discover the fascinating journey of Bika Ambon, a cherished Indonesian delicacy with Portuguese roots, as its enigmatic origins are traced through history and culinary traditions.
Bika Ambon is a popular cake known as a specialty from Medan, North Sumatra. Bika Ambon is golden-brown colour, with by a chewy yet fluffy texture. It is made from a combination of tapioca flour, coconut milk, eggs, sugar, and palm wine. The fermentation of the dough with Batak’s palm wine or tuak created the cake’s unique texture with a honeycomb-like appearance.
While Bika Ambon has become an iconic symbol of Medan’s culinary, its origins remain unclear. Some legends suggest that Bika Ambon was influenced by Chinese or Ambon culinary traditions, while others attribute its inception to the local Batak community.
Legend had it that Bika Ambon’s journey began centuries ago, when Portuguese explorers landed on the shores of Ambon Island in the Maluku archipelago in 1512. The Portuguese brought with them a wealth of traditions, including the art of baking cakes. Among their culinary delights were cakes made from rice flour called bika and bingka.
Bika or bibingka is made from rice flour mixed with grated coconut and palm sugar (gula jawa), while bingka rice flour is mixed with eggs and coconut milk and palm, sugar (Visser 1911: 129). Versions of the bika cakes still can be found in parts of Indonesia, such as in west Sumatra. Other variations include bibingka in the Philipines and bibinca in Goa, India.
Over time, these cakes found their way to the bustling city of Batavia (now Jakarta). By the 1890s, a particular version of the cake known as Bika Ambon had gained recognition and popularity. It was often made and sold by the Chinese community. However, the early history of Bika Ambon was not without its share of intrigue. In 1896, a scandalous incident occurred when a family in Kwitang, Batavia fell ill after consuming a bika ambon sold at their doorstep by a woman named Ki Kio Nio (De Locomotief 10–02–1896)
Despite this setback, the allure of Bika Ambon continued to grow, and it reached the height of its popularity in the 1930s. Cake shops like Het Hoenkwe Huis in Petjenongan, Batavia proudly advertised Bika Ambon as their specialty, drawing in customers with its delicious flavours. Another renowned shop, Tepoeng Hoenkwee tjap “Bunga” by Njonya Tjoa Tjoen Goan from Tjitjoeroeg, offered not only Bika Ambon but also other delectable treats like Kwee Pepe (Lapis), creating a haven for cake enthusiasts. Bika Ambon or sometimes called Bingka Ambon were mostly sold by Chinese bakeries in Batavia and Java along with lemper, kelepon, lapis legit, spekkoek dll.
Although Bika Ambon had found its place in the heart of Java, the version enjoyed there differed from the one we know today. The traditional Javanese recipe combined tapioca flour, sugar, coconut milk, and yeast, resulting in a baked cake sprinkled with walnuts.
Bika Ambon in Medan appeared during the Japanese occupation time in 1943 old by Tah Tau Restoran at Kesawan №79.
It is unknown when the Medan version of Bika Ambon we know today took place. The Bika Ambon incorporated eggs and sugar into the mixture of tapioca flour and coconut milk. What set it apart, though, was the use of tuak, a local palm wine, as a raising agent, replacing the traditional yeast. This unconventional twist resulted in a cake with a honeycomb-like structure and an unparalleled texture.
It was the entrepreneurial spirit of Chinese Indonesian business owners in the 1980s that ignited the Bika Ambon popularity in Medan. The cake’s distinctiveness makes it into Medan’s culinary heritage.